You could get a very good half-chicken at either with good fries. Mussels escabeche at Cervo’s — spicy, coral colored, just barely cured in preserved lemon — became fried mussels ...

For a sophisticated snack, Hezel chooses mussels - "the underrated jewels of the tinned seafood world" - that are packed in escabeche sauce, or a flavourful vinaigrette of vinegar, olive oil ...